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Wonderful, Flavorful Oils |
Today, in Seattle, it is raining cats and dogs. There is a lot of water falling outside. It is raining so hard, in fact, that we can hear the rhythmic drumming of Dionysius’ heartbeat. When the rain stops for a rest, the Pinophyta outside my office window look like they are glowing with happiness as their arms rise up towards the sky and the water drips off their limbs and falls to the ground.
The weather is one of the few things left that we both enjoy and complain about. Yet, we accept the weather and never blame one another for it - except perhaps in jest – although we do like to blame the local TV weatherman. For most of us too much rain is a mere inconvenience, once in a while a total hassle, and sometimes a complete disaster. (We all remember Hurricane Katrina....)
The farmer, whose livelihood is so dependent on this uncontrollable variable, truly is affected by simple changes in weather or weather that is out of the norm. When we run around in our shorts in January because of a surprise heat wave, we don't think about the fact that the beautiful weather can fool the fruit trees into thinking spring is just around the corner. And then, when we put on an extra jacket in March in response to a sudden cold snap, we usually don't think that this may mean potential disaster for the cherry trees that have already started to bloom.
In 2009, both Europe and California had out of the ordinary weather during harvest. Albert and Kim Katz in Napa Valley had both lots and lots of rain, and an early and unusually harsh frost during the last week of their harvest. In the end, what was going to be a short harvest year anyways, turned out to be a very small yield. To help put this in perspective, imagine investing your life’s savings in the stock market and watching your nest egg grow and then, the day you plan to sell your stock, the market drops and your stock is suddenly under water - except you still have loans to pay off and children (trees) to care for.
Though not every grower had the same weather or the same outcome, it was for everyone an out of the ordinary year. In the end it means less oil available and, in many cases, oil that is less punchy and green than the year before. We have found, quite interestingly, that almost all the oils this year have at least a hint of fruit, if not a strong essence of banana! (Don’t think literally banana, but as a way to describe the level of fruitiness.)
Here are a few new crop arrivals that we truly enjoy...where the end flavor of the oils show that these producers are true olive oil masters.
Rock Hill Ranch
Rock Hill Ranch is nestled in the Suisun Valley, neighbor valley to the famed Napa Valley. The area is known for its early morning fog which keeps the olives (the orchards) cooler in the morning by tempering the hot sun and allowing for a wider range of temperatures. It is a perfect growing climate.
This year’s Rock Hill Ranch has a very nice nose, full of green olive. The first taste had a very full feel on my tongue – round and filling my mouth with flavor - like a thick cloud of olive essence - a nice fruit flavor that is not quite buttery. The oil disappears and many seconds pass before the heat hits in the back of my throat. I sucked in two tablespoons at once and the burn was so good I had to look for a swig of water. This is special oil! It has such a nice personality you won't be shy to introduce it to any dish or friend you might know. If you have never tried Rock Hill Ranch olive oil, this is the year to take the plunge. It just keeps getting better and better. Like last year, this oil is not just an Italian wannabe; it is an olive oil with its own distinction. Don’t let the ten Gold Medals mislead you; this oil is even better than that!
Chef’s Pick
Those of you who know this oil, love it for its flavor and its size. This 750 ml bottle is packed with a perfect mix of Italian Varietals. With a smooth start and finish, this oil adds flavor without overpowering. With a mild peppery burn in the back of the throat that grows if you add more oil. The finish is clean, milder and less bitter than last year. It is, as always, a good oil to have. Order early because Albert has less than 50% of the volume he had last year! It’s a favorite oil of many Chefs - including a little place in Berkeley.
Chateau Virant
One of THE olive oils of France. This sophisticated oil represents, no embodies, what a mature grove can produce: Smooth, pure olive flavor. Rich and buttery, light on the tongue - with a little tickle in the throat. It dissipates quickly, leaving a pleasant olive feel without being overpowering. I really like the finish!
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La Nogalera Toasted Walnut oil
Wonderful, lightly toasted walnut oil from California. Smooth and clean, and SO healthy! A perfect oil for your favorite Waldorf salad.
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La Maison de Huile
Chosen this month by Bon Appetit Magazine as one of the oils from off the beaten path worth having. The Island of Corsica is southeast of Cannes and west and a little north of Roma. Sitting in the middle of the Mediterranean must have an effect on the groves of olives that are bathed in the salt air and the warmth of the sun. The oil reflects these elements by feeling relaxed on your pallet with a confident olive taste. The oil shows how different terroir can make the composition of an oil unique.
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